175 Worst Things Seen During Structural Inspections

Structural inspections are basically the building world’s version of a medical checkupexcept the patient is a house,
it can’t tell you where it hurts, and sometimes the “symptom” is a floor that feels like a trampoline.
The goal isn’t to roast your home (okay, sometimes it is a little), but to understand how the structure is performing:
foundations, framing, roof systems, load paths, and the not-so-glamorous supporting cast like connectors, drainage, and moisture control.

This guide compiles the most common “please don’t let that be load-bearing” moments inspectors and engineers run into,
why they matter, and what you can do when you spot them. It’s written for homeowners, buyers, sellers, and anyone who has ever said,
“How bad could it be?” right before finding out.

What a Structural Inspection Actually Looks For

1) The load path

A structure should move loads (people, furniture, snow, wind) down to the ground in a continuous chain:
roof → walls/frames → beams/columns → foundation → soil. Break the chain with a cut truss, a missing post, or a sketchy “temporary” support
that’s been there since the last three presidents, and you get sagging, cracking, racking, or worse.

2) Movement and distress signals

Cracks, sloped floors, sticking doors, bowed walls, and separated trim aren’t “just cosmetic” by default.
Sometimes they are normal aging. Sometimes they’re the structure waving a tiny white flag.
A good inspection looks for patterns (where, how wide, what direction) and the likely cause (settlement, moisture, poor connections, overload).

3) Moisture and time

Water is the undefeated champion of structural damage. It rots wood, corrodes steel, spalls concrete, softens soils,
and turns basements into indoor pools with hobbies. Most “big structural problems” are really “small water problems” that got promoted.

The 175 Worst Finds

These are written as “inspection red flags.” One item alone doesn’t always equal imminent failurebut every item deserves professional evaluation,
especially if you see multiple signs in the same area.

Foundation, Soil, and Crawl Space Nightmares (1–35)

1. Horizontal foundation crack with inward bow.
2. Stair-step cracks through masonry foundation blocks.
3. Foundation wall bulging like it’s holding its breath.
4. Slab heave lifting interior walls and tile.
5. Settlement crack that keeps widening year over year.
6. Footing undermined by erosion or washout.
7. Gaps between foundation and framing at sill.
8. Sill plate not anchored to the foundation.
9. Rotted sill plate from chronic moisture.
10. Termite-damaged mudsill or rim board.
11. Steel column rusted through at the base.
12. Post-on-dirt “support system.”
13. Stacked bricks used as a permanent pier.
14. Car jack supporting a beam (still “temporary”).
15. Improvised shims made of random scrap wood.
16. Crawl space with standing water and mud.
17. Missing vapor barrier over bare soil.
18. Joists bearing directly on soil or debris.
19. Severely uneven floors tied to pier failure.
20. Cracked pier with crushed cap block.
21. Cracked foundation with visible lateral displacement.
22. Excessive efflorescence plus damp foundation walls.
23. Basement wall spalling with exposed rebar.
24. Drainage sloped toward the foundation.
25. Gutters dumping water at the footing line.
26. Sump discharge routed right back to the house.
27. Retaining wall leaning or rotating outward.
28. Retaining wall with failed or missing drainage.
29. Addition settling away from the main house.
30. Open voids under slab edges or stoops.
31. Slab cut for plumbing and left unpatched.
32. Post-tension slab drilled “because why not.”
33. Foundation patched and painted to “hide the vibe.”
34. Unreinforced masonry foundation in high-risk areas.
35. Fire damage to crawl supports and subfloor framing.

Framing, Floors, and “Who Cut That?” (36–70)

36. Floor joists sagging with noticeable bounce.
37. Joists crowned downward (installed upside down).
38. Joists notched deep at midspan.
39. Large holes bored near joist bottom edge.
40. Multiple joists cut for ducts and pipes.
41. Trimmer joist at stairs split or undersized.
42. Missing joist hangers where they’re required.
43. Hangers installed with the wrong fasteners.
44. Beam pocket rot at masonry bearing points.
45. Split girder or beam with active deflection.
46. “Sistered” joists fastened with drywall screws.
47. Posts perched on a single paver.
48. Wood post base rotted at slab contact.
49. Steel lally column out of plumb.
50. Column adjusted with stacked wood shims.
51. Beam supported by a notched 4×4.
52. Crushed wood fibers at bearing locations.
53. Improperly supported cantilevered framing.
54. Rim joist missing or severely decayed.
55. Ledger-like framing nailed, not bolted.
56. Load-bearing wall removed without a header.
57. Header built from undersized members for long span.
58. Cracked drywall patterns matching structural movement.
59. Door frames racked from floor or wall shift.
60. Studs cut or bored excessively for plumbing.
61. Unbraced tall walls with noticeable sway.
62. Improper splice in a critical beam.
63. Underbuilt posts supporting heavy point loads.
64. Multiple layers of flooring hiding serious slope.
65. Subfloor delamination from long-term moisture.
66. Floor framing attacked by termites or ants.
67. Inadequate lateral bracing in crawl/basement.
68. Framing crushed by over-tightened jacks.
69. Patchwork repairs with no engineering logic.
70. Multiple repairsnone addressing the real cause.

Roof, Attic, and Truss Trouble (71–95)

71. Roof truss web cut for HVAC routing.
72. Bottom chord cut to “make storage.”
73. Truss plates loose, lifted, or wrinkled.
74. Truss bracing missing or improperly installed.
75. Rafters split or cracked at midspan.
76. Rafter ties removed for “open concept.”
77. Collar ties missing where needed.
78. Ridge line visibly sagging from outside.
79. Undersized ridge beam for the span.
80. Roof sheathing delaminated from chronic leaks.
81. Water-stained top plates and wall framing.
82. Roof framing overloaded by heavy reroof materials.
83. Improperly supported valley or hip framing.
84. Notched rafters at bearing points.
85. Chimney framing hacked for clearance.
86. Holes in sheathing cut too large for vents.
87. Missing connectors along the roof-to-wall path.
88. Connectors installed but missing nails.
89. Wind bracing absent in exposed regions.
90. Attic fire charring on structural members.
91. Evidence of roof uplift or racking.
92. Rot at fascia/rafter tails from leaks.
93. Improvised “repairs” with scrap plywood gussets.
94. Multiple roof layers masking structural distress.
95. Structural repairs done without addressing moisture source.

Masonry, Chimneys, and Brick “Drama” (96–115)

96. Chimney leaning away from the house.
97. Chimney separated from structure at roofline.
98. Spalling brick faces from moisture/freeze-thaw.
99. Cracked flue liner with missing sections.
100. Step cracks in veneer tied to movement.
101. Bulging brick veneer wall segment.
102. Loose veneer that moves when pushed.
103. Missing or corroded brick ties.
104. Rust-jacking around steel lintels.
105. Lintel failure causing brick sag over openings.
106. Failed mortar joints with widespread deterioration.
107. Weep holes missing where needed.
108. Blocked weep holes trapping water behind veneer.
109. Cracked masonry over windows and doors.
110. Parapet wall cracking and leaning outward.
111. Stone veneer delaminating from substrate.
112. Improperly added veneer without structural support.
113. Chimney fire damage to surrounding framing.
114. Unsupported masonry sections over wide openings.
115. Previous tuckpointing hiding ongoing movement.

Decks, Porches, and Exterior “Oh No” (116–135)

116. Deck ledger attached to brick veneer.
117. Ledger fastened with nails instead of bolts.
118. Missing ledger flashing (water trap special).
119. Deck pulling away from the house.
120. Posts embedded in soil without proper base.
121. Rotted posts at grade level.
122. Notched posts supporting beams (weakened section).
123. Beam-to-post connection barely hanging on.
124. Improper cantilever beyond code-like limits.
125. Joists toe-nailed with no hangers where needed.
126. Undersized joists for the span and load.
127. Bouncy deck framing with visible deflection.
128. Guardrails wobbly or dangerously low.
129. Guard posts not properly anchored to framing.
130. Stair stringers unsupported or split.
131. Stair landing settling and tilting.
132. Porch roof supported by decayed columns.
133. Concrete porch slab sinking away from house.
134. Rotten rim/band joist where deck attaches.
135. Previous “repair” that ignores water intrusion.

Concrete, Steel, and Commercial-Scale Surprises (136–150)

136. Concrete spalling with heavy rebar corrosion.
137. Wide slab cracks with vertical displacement.
138. Cracked garage slab from soil movement.
139. Failed column base plate anchorage.
140. Steel beam corrosion with visible section loss.
141. Missing fireproofing on structural steel.
142. Corroded connections at steel-to-steel joints.
143. Loose anchor bolts at critical supports.
144. Concrete honeycombing at structural elements.
145. Exposed, corroding embedded steel at edges.
146. Cracked masonry infill with no lateral support.
147. Overloaded storage areas causing structural sag.
148. Impact damage to columns in parking areas.
149. Unsupported openings cut in load-bearing walls.
150. Multiple unpermitted modifications in structural members.

Water, Pests, and Slow-Motion Disasters (151–165)

151. Chronic roof leak feeding rot in framing.
152. Basement seepage causing ongoing wood decay.
153. Musty crawl space with active fungal growth.
154. Termite mud tubes on foundation walls.
155. Hollow-sounding framing from insect damage.
156. Carpenter ant galleries weakening joists.
157. Powderpost beetle damage on older timbers.
158. Wet insulation masking leaks and rot.
159. Condensation dripping on structural members.
160. Corrosion at coastal connections and fasteners.
161. Freeze-thaw deterioration in porous masonry.
162. Repetitive plumbing leaks at beam pockets.
163. Improper grading creating hydrostatic pressure.
164. Mold-covered sheathing from poor ventilation.
165. Drainage fixes attempted without fixing the source.

DIY Structural “Innovations” (166–175)

166. “Beam” replaced with two nailed 2x4s.
167. Cinder blocks stacked sideways as a pier.
168. Load-bearing wall removed for a bigger TV.
169. Structural member cut for a new doorwayno header.
170. Roof truss altered to fit a pull-down stair.
171. Hot tub placed on a lightly framed deck.
172. Concrete drilled into unknown post-tension cables.
173. Basement wall “repaired” with caulk and hope.
174. Random steel straps added with tiny screws.
175. Multiple unpermitted changes with no documentation.

What To Do If You Find One of These

Prioritize safety first

If you see major movement (large displacement, severe bowing, failing supports, fire damage, or anything that feels unstable),
treat it like a safety issue, not a weekend project. Limit access, especially in basements, crawl spaces, decks, and garages.

Get the right professional for the job

A home inspector can identify red flags, but a licensed structural engineer can analyze causes, severity, and repair options.
For pests, bring in a licensed pest professional. For moisture, sometimes the winning team is drainage + waterproofing + structural repair.

Document patterns, not just one crack

Take photos, measure crack widths (even roughly), note dates, and look for correlated symptoms:
sticking doors, floor slope, new gaps at trim, recurring leaks. Patterns help diagnose. Single snapshots can mislead.

Fix the causethen the damage

A repaired beam won’t stay happy if water keeps soaking it. A patched crack won’t stay small if drainage keeps pressurizing the wall.
The most durable repairs usually address the trigger (water, soil, overload, missing connectors) before the cosmetic cleanup.

How to Prevent a Horror-Show Inspection

• Control water: maintain gutters, downspouts, grading, and drainage away from the foundation.
• Ventilate and dehumidify: keep crawl spaces and attics dry; reduce condensation.
• Don’t cut structural members casually: holes/notches in joists and trusses can create real risk.
• Upgrade connections where appropriate: straps, clips, anchors, and proper fasteners improve load paths.
• Respect additions and remodels: “open concept” is great until gravity joins the conversation.
• Inspect after major events: flooding, earthquakes, hurricanes, or a big plumbing leak deserve a follow-up look.

Real-World Experiences and Lessons From the Field (Extra )

Ask a room full of inspectors about the worst things they’ve seen during structural inspections and you’ll get two kinds of answers:
the ones that make you laugh, and the ones that make you quietly decide you’re never skipping an attic again.
What’s striking is how rarely the scariest conditions appear out of nowhere. More often, they’re the end of a long chain of small decisions:
a leak that wasn’t fixed, a gutter that overflowed for “just one more season,” a contractor who cut a joist because the duct “had to fit,”
or a homeowner who treated the structure like a Lego set where any piece can be removed as long as you put something “support-ish” back.

One of the most common themes is the “perfect storm corner”: a crawl space with moisture, poor ventilation, and wood in contact with damp surfaces.
The first visit might show light staining and a little musty smell. The second visitmaybe years laterreveals softened sill plates, a rim board that
crumbles under a screwdriver, and insect activity taking advantage of the buffet. The lesson inspectors repeat (often loudly) is that moisture management
is structural management. If you keep wood dry and connections protected, you eliminate a huge percentage of expensive structural repairs before they start.

Another recurring story: truss modifications. People love extra storage, bigger HVAC runs, or a new attic access. Trusses… do not love surprises.
Inspectors often describe opening an attic and finding a truss web neatly cut out to make room for ductworklike the building is wearing a fashionable
missing rib. Sometimes the roof hasn’t sagged yet. Sometimes it already has, and the clues are visible outside: a dip along the ridge or a wavy roofline.
The takeaway is simple: engineered components should be repaired with engineered solutions. A scrap plywood “patch” with a handful of screws may look confident,
but confidence isn’t a load rating.

Then there’s the comedy category: supports made from stacked bricks, random fence posts, and the occasional car jack that has apparently become part of the
home’s family heritage. These “fixes” often work just well enough to delay real repairand that’s what makes them dangerous. Structures don’t always fail loudly.
They often fail slowly: a little more deflection each year, a little more cracking, a little more movement that feels “normal” because it happened gradually.
Inspectors tend to advise homeowners to trust changes. If a door suddenly sticks, a floor suddenly slopes, or a crack suddenly grows, treat “suddenly” as the
important word.

Finally, experienced inspectors will tell you the same thing in different ways: don’t panic, but don’t ignore it. Many scary-looking conditions are repairable.
The most successful projects come from pairing good diagnosis with realistic scope: fix drainage, stabilize structure, repair damaged members, then restore finishes.
Do it in that order and your house stops acting like a reality show and goes back to being, well, a house.